Good country, exhausting tourist industry

Sweden is a genuinely beautiful and interesting place. Icehotel Kiruna is worth every superlative thrown at it. The smörgåsbord is legitimately excellent. Stockholm is gorgeous gave the trip real depth.

What I struggled with: the tourist infrastructure around the headline sites in Gothenburg is relentlessly commercial and can feel reserved socially is a genuine friction point. You can feel the gap between authentic Sweden and the packaged version sold to tourists. The authentic version wins, but you have to work to find it.