Kyiv surprised me completely on this trip to Ukraine

I went to Ukraine with modest expectations and left completely won over, largely thanks to time spent in Kyiv. The city has a pace and character that travel guides undersell. Found a great spot for chicken Kyiv on day two and went back every day after that.

Lviv Old Town was the big planned experience and delivered as expected. But it was rich folk art tradition that became the unexpected highlight — something I stumbled across rather than planned. 11 days was just right for getting below the surface without rushing.