Disappointed by the tourist experience around Phong Nha Caves

Phong Nha Caves in Vietnam is extraordinary — the scale and history hit you immediately. But the experience around it has been thoroughly commercialised. Getting there, navigating the crowds, and dealing with persistent sellers around Hạ Long Bay centre made it more stressful than it should be.

Away from the main sites the country improves dramatically. The food (pho especially) is excellent and extraordinary food culture was genuinely memorable. But I'd wish for a smoother experience at the headline attractions. It's still worth the trip — just lower your expectations around the big sights.