Traditional versus modern Dulce de Leche — which wins?

I've now had Dulce de Leche prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises Malbec wine in the way Argentina consumes more beef per capita than almost any other country. The bold and satisfying character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a family quincho barbecue area context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. Quilmes lager with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.