A dish that tells its story — Dolma reviewed

You can taste history in Dolma if you know what to look for. Armenia claims the world's oldest winery dating to 4100 BC and has a deep wine-making heritage. The sweet-sour from pomegranate and apricot character reflects those layers — tarragon doesn't appear by accident; it came from a specific tradition.

The a Yerevan restaurant setting made sense of it. You understand the food differently when the context is right. Armenian cognac alongside is part of that story. Some food is just fuel. Dolma, properly made, is something more. This version told the story well.