Traditional versus modern Barramundi — which wins?

I've now had Barramundi prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises Vegemite in the way Australian cuisine has absorbed multicultural influences and developed a distinct contemporary style. The fresh and light character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a Melbourne brunch café context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. Sauvignon Blanc with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.