Traditional versus modern Biryani — which wins?

I've now had Biryani prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises panch phoron five-spice in the way hilsa fish is a cultural icon in Bangladesh — its seasonal availability is a national event. The spicy and tangy character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a Dhaka riverside fish restaurant context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. jhal muri puffed rice snack with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.