Traditional versus modern Charquekan — which wins?

I've now had Charquekan prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises ají amarillo in the way Bolivia preserves some of the most ancient Andean food traditions including chuño freeze-drying which dates to pre-Inca times. The hearty and filling character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a market lunch counter context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. singani grape spirit with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.