Traditional versus modern Kuy Teav — which wins?

I've now had Kuy Teav prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises kroeung lemongrass paste in the way prahok is a uniquely Cambodian ingredient that foreigners find challenging but locals consider essential. The subtly fermented and umami character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a traditional home kitchen context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. sugarcane juice with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.