Traditional versus modern Completo — which wins?

I've now had Completo prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises Carménère wine in the way Chilean cuisine reflects the extraordinary length of the country with Pacific seafood, Andean ingredients, and Patagonian lamb all defining different regions. The fresh from the sea character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a Valparaíso seafood market context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. Cristal lager with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.