Traditional versus modern Curanto — which wins?

I've now had Curanto prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises shellfish from Patagonia in the way Chilean cuisine reflects the extraordinary length of the country with Pacific seafood, Andean ingredients, and Patagonian lamb all defining different regions. The smoky and herbal character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a Patagonian lamb restaurant context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. Cristal lager with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.