Traditional versus modern Dim Sum — which wins?

I've now had Dim Sum prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises five-spice in the way communal sharing at the table is culturally central. The rich with umami character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a regional specialty restaurant context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. jasmine tea with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.