Traditional versus modern Dumplings — which wins?

I've now had Dumplings prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises Shaoxing wine in the way Chinese cuisine encompasses eight major regional schools with distinct ingredients and techniques. The aromatic and complex character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a street stall in Chengdu context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. jasmine tea with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.