Traditional versus modern Hot Pot — which wins?

I've now had Hot Pot prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises Sichuan peppercorn in the way communal sharing at the table is culturally central. The bold and numbing character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a regional specialty restaurant context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. Tsingtao beer with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.