Traditional versus modern Kung Pao Chicken — which wins?

I've now had Kung Pao Chicken prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises five-spice in the way communal sharing at the table is culturally central. The bold and numbing character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a bustling dim sum hall context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. jasmine tea with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.