Traditional versus modern Peking Duck — which wins?

I've now had Peking Duck prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises Sichuan peppercorn in the way communal sharing at the table is culturally central. The deeply savoury and sweet character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a bustling dim sum hall context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. Shaoxing rice wine with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.