Traditional versus modern Sweet and Sour Pork — which wins?

I've now had Sweet and Sour Pork prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises fermented black bean in the way Chinese cuisine encompasses eight major regional schools with distinct ingredients and techniques. The bold and numbing character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a family banquet table context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. Shaoxing rice wine with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.