A dish that tells its story — Ajiaco reviewed

You can taste history in Ajiaco if you know what to look for. Colombian cuisine varies dramatically between the coastal Caribbean, Andean, and Amazonian regions. The hearty and comforting character reflects those layers — Colombian hogao tomato sauce doesn't appear by accident; it came from a specific tradition.

The an Antioquia bandeja paisa restaurant setting made sense of it. You understand the food differently when the context is right. tinto black coffee alongside is part of that story. Some food is just fuel. Ajiaco, properly made, is something more. This version told the story well.