Traditional versus modern Changua — which wins?

I've now had Changua prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises chicharrón pork rinds in the way the bandeja paisa plate is a point of Antioquian cultural pride. The richly textured character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a Bogotá corrientazo lunch counter context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. Águila beer with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.