Traditional versus modern Lechón Asado — which wins?

I've now had Lechón Asado prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises sofrito tomato base in the way paladares are privately owned Cuban restaurants that developed as an alternative to state food service. The earthy and hearty character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a family Sunday lechón context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. mojito with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.