Traditional versus modern Svíčková — which wins?

I've now had Svíčková prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises bread dumplings in the way bread dumplings served alongside everything evolved as the perfect vehicle for rich sauces. The malty from beer braises character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a traditional Czech hospoda context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. Moravian wine with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.