Traditional versus modern Koldskål — which wins?

I've now had Koldskål prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises fresh dill in the way Danish New Nordic cuisine movement redefined fine dining globally in the 2000s. The bright and pickled character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a traditional Sunday brunch context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. Danish lager with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.