Traditional versus modern Ceviche — which wins?

I've now had Ceviche prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises culantro in the way llapingachos potato cakes are a highland staple tied to Andean agricultural tradition. The bright and satisfying character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The an indigenous market food stall in the Andes context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. naranjilla juice with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.