Traditional versus modern Fanesca — which wins?

I've now had Fanesca prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises mote hominy in the way Ecuador's position on the equator gives it extraordinary biodiversity of ingredients from coast, highlands, and Amazon. The bright and satisfying character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a traditional home lunch context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. chicha de jora with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.