Traditional versus modern Locro de Papa — which wins?

I've now had Locro de Papa prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises choclo corn in the way llapingachos potato cakes are a highland staple tied to Andean agricultural tradition. The bright and satisfying character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a Guayaquil ceviche bar context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. canelazo hot cinnamon drink with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.