Traditional versus modern French Onion Soup — which wins?

I've now had French Onion Soup prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises butter in the way the terroir philosophy links food to its region of origin. The elegantly balanced character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a Parisian bistro context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. a digestif of Calvados with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.