Traditional versus modern Quiche Lorraine — which wins?

I've now had Quiche Lorraine prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises butter in the way French cuisine is a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage. The deeply layered character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a countryside auberge context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. Burgundy red wine with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.