Traditional versus modern Ojakhuri — which wins?

I've now had Ojakhuri prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises tkemali plum sauce in the way Georgia claims one of the world's oldest continuous wine-making traditions dating back 8000 years. The tangy and herbal character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a traditional Georgian supra feast context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. Borjomi mineral water with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.