Traditional versus modern Pkhali — which wins?

I've now had Pkhali prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises sulguni cheese in the way the Georgian supra feast is a ritual occasion with formal toasts guided by a tamada toastmaster. The tangy and herbal character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a wine cellar dinner context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. Borjomi mineral water with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.