Traditional versus modern Chicken Paprikash — which wins?

I've now had Chicken Paprikash prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises lard in the way Hungarian cuisine was shaped by nomadic Magyar traditions mixed with Ottoman and Habsburg influences. The deeply flavourful character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a Budapest csárda tavern context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. Tokaji wine with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.