Traditional versus modern Biryani — which wins?

I've now had Biryani prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises yogurt marinade in the way Indian cuisine varies enormously by state, religion, and climate. The warmly spiced and aromatic character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a north Indian restaurant abroad context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. nimbu pani lemon water with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.