Traditional versus modern Malabi — which wins?

I've now had Malabi prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises Medjool dates in the way Israeli cuisine is shaped by Jewish diaspora traditions from across the world fused with local Levantine ingredients. The warmly spiced character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a Tel Aviv hummusiya context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. Israeli wine with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.