Traditional versus modern Lasagne — which wins?

I've now had Lasagne prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises aged balsamic in the way Italian cooking is intensely regional with little crossover between provinces. The rich and umami character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a Sunday ragu lunch context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. Chianti with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.