Traditional versus modern Ackee and Saltfish — which wins?

I've now had Ackee and Saltfish prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises coconut milk in the way ackee is legally restricted for export when unripe due to toxicity — an unusual national dish ingredient. The fiery and aromatic character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a family Sunday dinner context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. ginger beer with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.