Traditional versus modern Oxtail Stew — which wins?

I've now had Oxtail Stew prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises scotch bonnet in the way ackee is legally restricted for export when unripe due to toxicity — an unusual national dish ingredient. The rich and coconut-sweet character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a family Sunday dinner context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. Red Stripe beer with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.