Traditional versus modern Korean Fried Chicken — which wins?

I've now had Korean Fried Chicken prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises kimchi brine in the way the communal banchan side dishes are as important as the main. The complex and bold character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a Korean barbecue restaurant with table grills context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. banana milk with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.