Traditional versus modern Kafta — which wins?

I've now had Kafta prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises za'atar in the way Lebanese hospitality is expressed through abundance on the table. The bright and balanced character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a Beirut street stall context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. arak with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.