Traditional versus modern Rømmegrøt — which wins?

I've now had Rømmegrøt prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises brown cheese in the way rakfisk fermented trout is an ancient preservation method still enjoyed at Christmas. The rich and slightly sweet character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a Bergen fish market lunch context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. aquavit with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.