Traditional versus modern Pollo a la Brasa — which wins?

I've now had Pollo a la Brasa prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises quinoa in the way Lima is considered one of the world's great culinary destinations. The fresh and marine character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a coastal chicharronería context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. Inca Kola with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.