Traditional versus modern Tiradito — which wins?

I've now had Tiradito prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises leche de tigre lime marinade in the way Lima is considered one of the world's great culinary destinations. The bright and citrusy character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a coastal chicharronería context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. cold Cusqueña beer with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.