Traditional versus modern Gołąbki — which wins?

I've now had Gołąbki prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises smoked sausage in the way the Christmas Eve wigilia meal has strict traditional rules including twelve meatless dishes. The tangy and hearty character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a Warsaw milk bar context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. Polish beer with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.