Traditional versus modern Bifanas — which wins?

I've now had Bifanas prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises piri piri in the way pastéis de nata originated in Belém monastery in the 18th century. The smoky and robust character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a tascas lunch counter context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. ginjinha cherry liqueur with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.