Traditional versus modern Pastel de Nata — which wins?

I've now had Pastel de Nata prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises chouriço in the way Portugal developed bacalhau salt cod cookery while exploring the Atlantic and has over 365 recipes for it. The smoky and robust character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a pastelaria morning coffee context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. Sagres beer with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.