Traditional versus modern Piri Piri Chicken — which wins?

I've now had Piri Piri Chicken prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises fresh sardines in the way pastéis de nata originated in Belém monastery in the 18th century. The briny and savoury character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a coastal seafood restaurant context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. Sagres beer with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.