Traditional versus modern Sardinhas Assadas — which wins?

I've now had Sardinhas Assadas prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises piri piri in the way Portugal developed bacalhau salt cod cookery while exploring the Atlantic and has over 365 recipes for it. The smoky and robust character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a coastal seafood restaurant context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. Port wine with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.