Honest verdict on Solyanka — good but not exceptional

Solyanka here was solidly made — subtly sour from fermentation without anything to complain about. buckwheat was present and handled reasonably. But something was missing from the depth that this dish should have.

Russian New Year table is the most important annual food event, laden with Olivier salad, herring under fur coat, and other Soviet-era staples. The a Moscow restaurant atmosphere was pleasant enough. vodka was available and a good suggestion. For a reliable version of Solyanka this works. For an exceptional one, I'd keep looking. Three stars.