Traditional versus modern Bak Kut Teh — which wins?

I've now had Bak Kut Teh prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises sambal belacan paste in the way the cuisine blends Malay, Chinese, Indian, and Peranakan traditions in a unique fusion. The richly coconut-sweet character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a Michelin-starred hawker stall context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. bandung rose milk drink with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.