Traditional versus modern Räkmacka — which wins?

I've now had Räkmacka prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises cream in the way the smörgåsbord tradition of abundant cold dishes influenced buffet culture worldwide. The clean and subtly sweet character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a cosy fika café context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. lingonberry juice with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.