Traditional versus modern Smörgåsbord — which wins?

I've now had Smörgåsbord prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises gravlax cured salmon in the way Swedish fika culture elevates the coffee break with pastries into a social institution. The clean and subtly sweet character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a Swedish smörgåsbord table context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. light lager with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.