Traditional versus modern Massaman Curry — which wins?

I've now had Massaman Curry prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises fish sauce in the way fresh herbs and aromatics are added at the last moment to preserve fragrance. The deeply aromatic character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a family restaurant context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. Thai iced tea with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.